After searching for a cheap gimbal for my mobius camera my eyes fell on a mobius goodluckbuy gimbal which is in theory is designed to be used with a GoPro camera but I read in the comments that it can be used with a mobius camera as well. So I bought one with just 55$ (44€). That included both the 2 motors and the controller. It’s a bit on the heavy side but for 55 dollars that was the best value for money gimbal I have found around.
Simple structure and light weight,CNC aluminum alloy structure
Brushless motor direct drive
With anti-vibration rubber balls,easy to adjust
Compatible with Gopro 3,2,1
with 2pcs 2208 motors
with latest V2.3B5 firmware gimbal controller, sensor, no need upgrade (SKU: 101101)
with motor protector which can help heat dissipation
230/300gram with/without Gopro hero 3
260 grams with a mobius
I attached my mobius on the edge of the gimbal’s base and I watched over to balance the camera the best I could. I did that because the less effort the gimbal takes to balance the camera the less energy it wastes to do that.
Connections: I connected the pins A0..(see below)
I accidentally connected the gimbal to the wrong pins (although I had read not to connect it to NC pins but I was in a hurry and the numbering on the case was misaligned) and I “burned” my APM (original one). So I had to buy new APM board (a clone one this time see here) and I started again (more carefully this time).
For my new Tarot 650 I changed the way that mobius is mounted on the Mobius GoodLuckBuy gimbal and also I created some sort of a base for the gimbal to sit on the downside tubes of the frame.
I tried 2 ways of mounting the mobius on the goodluckbuy gimbal.
I think I will stick with the second way. In order for this to work I had to change the sensor orientation through the SimpleBGC GUI . So I connected the board on my pc and changed the right axis to -Y from -X it was.
I also connected the pitch RC control from the A0 signal pin to channel 6 of my PPM FRSKY D8R receiver and it worked fine. Here are the initial settings where things works fine but needs some fine tuning.
This post is about how to install CHDK on a Canon camera quickly and easy. All thanks to the great software STICK written by Dave Mitchell.
But first of all:
What is CHDK?
- Canon Hack Development Kit
- Temporary – No permanent changes are made to the camera.
- Experimental – No warranty. Read about the risks in the FAQ
- Free – free to use and modify, released under the GPL.
- Professional control – RAW files, bracketing, full manual control over exposure, zebra mode, live histogram, grids, etc.
- Motion detection – Trigger exposure in response to motion, fast enough to catch lightning.
- USB remote – Simple DIY remote allows you to control your camera remotely.
- Scripting – Control CHDK and camera features using uBASIC and Lua scripts. Enables time lapse, motion detection, advanced bracketing, and more.
CHDK is the way to go when you want to shoot aerial photos from a quadcopter and you want the lens to be retracted after you take off and then to shoot photos every 2 or 3 seconds to get the pictures you want for your project. Or you if you want to control your camera (when to open its lens or when to shoot a photo from your Transmitter)
In http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK you can find all the info you want about if your Canon supports CHDK and which version of CHDK you should install with intructions about how you do it and how to use it after the installation.
But the easy way to go is downloading the STICK software from here. STICK is written in java and it’s a 4 step application:
- Step 1: Drag and drop a photo on the box and the application automatically informs you about the camera you own
- Step 2: You choose and download the appropriate build for your camera
- Step 3: It analyzes your card
Step 4: It prepares(partition formatting and making bootavle as necessary) and then CHDK is installed.
Don’t forget to lock your sd card before inserting into your camera.
This post would be my diary in Aerial Photographing taken by my converted IR Canon A490.I will update it whenever a flight has something valuable to show. I will try to keep a single format in every diary record. There would be some basic information in the beginning and then a gallery of single shots, the stitched photo and the NDVI result. Read More
I did a quick Photo Stitching by using free Microsoft Image Composite Editor to stitch 7 aerial photos shot at about 50 meters high. The result of the photo stitching was pretty decent as one can see from the last photo of the following image gallery. I used planar motion 1 as stitch method. As a next step I am going georeference the stitched photo to be able to take measurements of length and area. Read More